New Car Day - MY Audi Quattro

[Halli~SPARTA~]

Yeah what CoBoL said cause we aready know it's Water Cooled.

 

p.s. use distilled water for engine and it will never corrode.

[Zeno~SPARTA~]

Here's my setup screen

 

[NoScream~SPARTA~]

Is that the setup page whilst on the SAT-NAV ? as your showing sat nav map version AN

Latest is CC mine is AL. This pic looks like the DVD Version Page.

 

Navigate to the normal page like Media/music and press CAR > SETUP then SETTINGS

should get the car MMI data version.

 

 

NORMALLY the TTS comes with 3 options for MMI

 

Audi Navigation plus

 

The DVD-based Audi Navigation plus features real time traffic, a full-color 6.5" LCD screen and MMI®-inspired control logic for AM/FM and satellite radio functions. Also included are two SD-card slots for your MP3 music and the option of a six-CD changer or iPod® interface.

 

MMI® Navigation plus with real-time traffic and six-CD changer

 

The DVD-based MMI® Navigation system plus features a full-color 6.5'' LCD screen and MMI-inspired control logic for AM/FM and SIRIUS Radio® functions, real-time traffic, a six-CD changer in the glove box and two SD® card slots for your MP3 music. Navigation information is given as audible route-guidance prompts and turn arrows via the color driver information system as well as a detailed color map on the main screen; five languages are available.

 

Navigation plus is also known as: RNS-E

 

 

 

MMI® Navigation plus with Audi music interface (w/iPod cable)

 

The DVD-based MMI® Navigation plus features real-time traffic, a full-color 6.5" LCD screen and MMI-inspired control logic for AM/FM and satellite radio functions. Also included are two SD card slots for your MP3 music and the option of an iPod® interface (replaces six-disc cd changer). Navigation information is given as audible route-guidance prompts and turn arrows via

 

http://models.audiusa.com/tts-roadster/options-packages

 

 

 

I think you have the Audi Navigation plus

 

 

FROM HERE:

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/07/23/review-2009-audi-tts-is-our-orange-crush-but-only-just-a-cru/

 

2009 SW UPDATE to MMI (from July 2009 on models)

When you flip through a folder, it lists the track's number, not the name, and although we're intimately familiar with the contents of our iPod, we have no idea which song is #86 and which one is #8624. That shortcoming has been addressed in the latest version of MMI and earlier versions can be upgraded,

 

So the older TTS cars, MMI can be updated to give ipod TRACK DATA !!!! not just the word TRACK & Number like earlier Software versions.

 

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/06/30/audi-updates-mmi-system-for-2010-a3-tt-and-r8/

INGOLSTADT, Germany, Jun 30, 2009 - The new Audi navigation system plus with MMI (Multi Media Interface) operating logic in the A3, TT and R8 offers improved screen resolution and unmatched route calculation speed. The radio-navigation system, version E (RNS-E), can be combined with the Audi music interface and reads up to 32 GB SD memory cards. The new system is available immediately and costs between 2,270 and 2,565 euros, depending on the model.

 

 

http://audiforum.us/mmi/10164-mmi-basic-plus-version-upgrade.html

 

Version History

 

European / ROW (Rest of the World) versions:

 

* 0890 (0.8.90) -

* 1190 (1.1.90) -

* 1200 (1.2.00) -

* 2120 (2.1.20) - {Update CD p/n 4E0 906 961 L}

* 3460 (3.4.60) - {Update CD p/n 4E0 906 961 T}

* 4220 (4.2.20) - {Update CD p/n 4E0 906 961 AA}

* 5150 (5.1.50) - {Update CD p/n 4F0 906 961 AB}

* 5170 (5.1.79) -

* 5570 (5.5.70) - {Update CD set p/n 4L0 998 961 (A6/A8/Q7) or p/n 8K0 998 961 (A4 B8/A5)}

 

 

 

 

READ ABOUT: Audi Navigation Plus

http://deletionpedia.dbatley.com/w/index.php?title=Audi_Navigation_Plus_%28deleted_03_May_2008_at_04:30%29

 

Audi Navigation plus (sometimes shortened to Audi Navigation +, Audi NavPlus, or Audi Navi+), is the manufacturer name for the OEM factory-fitted automotive navigation systems (a specific type of satellite navigation system), (often shortened Sat Nav), for certain Audi cars. It also includes an integrated analogue radio receiver, and acts as the command centre for other in car entertainment components.

 

There are two distinct types of systems. The original "Audi Navigation plus" was a CD-ROM based system: namely the RNS-D. In 2004, the RNS-D was replaced by a much improved DVD-ROM based RNS-E. Both systems utilise Global Positioning System (GPS) for vehicle location, along with digitised road maps, and non-customisable Point Of Interests (POI). Both systems also act as control units for ancillary audio or visual equipment, such as a CD Changer or TV tuner control. Furthermore, unlike portable stand-alone SatNav devices, both systems utilise dead reckoning.

 

"RNS" stands for "Radio Navigation System".

[NoScream~SPARTA~]

Just found this 3rd party solution

 

 

ALL ABOUT IT

http://www.alpine-electronics.co.uk/products/details/ipod-interface/kce-425i.html

 

 

 

http://www.vwcruise.com/38.html

TT Mk2 8J 2006-2009 RNS-E Sat Nav £460

 

ALPINE KCE 425i iPOD KIT

 

 

 

 

[NoScream~SPARTA~]

You might be asking if you have a RNS-E or RNS-D head unit (MMI)

The above ALPINE adaptor is for RSN-E only or above not RSN-D

 

[Zeno~SPARTA~]

Mine is RNS-E for sure

[Yankee~SPARTA~]

I think my Civic has a tape deck

[MedicSN6]

I think my Civic has a tape deck

Mine has a broken CD player, so I just use my ipod through a audio input.

[CoBoL~SPARTA~]

My Landi has the old 4 track systems, can this also be over clocked.

[NoScream~SPARTA~]

My Landi has the old 4 track systems, can this also be over clocked.

 

 

This has cobol written all over it !!!! 2009 RS6, Viiiper's RECOMMENDATION

 

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNcqAZheTpU

 

http://www.carenthusiast.com/reviews/article/2968/-/2009-Audi-RS6+saloon/First+drive.html

 

SERIOUSLY I think the S6 would be more you COBOL !!!

 

 

P.S. I Want your DRIVEWAY TARMAC like this !!!!

 

 

 

 

desktop wallpaper for you...

http://custom.netcarshow.com/Audi/2009-RS6/01.htm

[NoScream~SPARTA~]

[CoBoL~SPARTA~]

Let me check my piggy bank.

[NoScream~SPARTA~]

DSG Gearbox

 

GEARBOX TECHNOLOGY

 

 

Faster than Manual shifting.

 

Direct Shift Gearbox

 

multitronic transmission

 

The Audi multitronic transmission combines the responsiveness and fuel efficiency of a manual gearbox with the convenience of an automatic. Take a closer look at the technical specifications.

More dynamism and less fuel

 

Thanks to its continuously variable ratios and adaptive map control, multitronic provides seamless acceleration, and always uses the optimum engine speed for the circumstances. Because of this control near to the operating optimum, fuel consumption can in some cases actually be lower than with a manual gearbox.

 

 

S-Tronic (Audi DSG) v Manual

 

 

S tronic transmission

 

The S tronic never takes a rest. While you’re accelerating in second gear the control logic is already pre-selecting third gear. At the gearshift point, the twin clutch reacts in a flash and the transmission shifts seamlessly. A two-shaft construction makes this changeover possible and ensures an uninterrupted flow of power to the drive wheels.

 

tiptronic transmission

 

The 6-speed tiptronic transmission system is a form of automatic transmission available on Audi models with quattro permanent all-wheel-drive. The technology converts high-torque engine power into both sporty performance and operating convenience, with crisp, fast gear changes, reduced weight and an optimised gearshift strategy. More spontaneous gear changes are a particular benefit, especially when down-shifting. Both in the ‘D’ (Drive) and ‘S’ (Sport) programme, the advanced electronics used in tiptronic respond efficiently to every driver input, helping to prevent unwanted upshifts when cornering.

 

 

R tronic sequential transmission

 

R tronic is a unique technology developed by Audi, which provides swift and seamless gear-changing for an incredibly sporty drive. Thanks to its groundbreaking electro-hydraulic shifting unit, R tronic transmits all the force of the R8’s engine power to the road with unrivalled smoothness and control. And when you switch to S mode, the ride becomes all the more thrilling: the system delays automatic gearshifts for optimum acceleration, while the pioneering Launch Control provides the kind of lightning-fast performance that allows the R8 to spring from a standing start to 62mph in just 3.9 seconds*.

[NoScream~SPARTA~]

Winter is here (UK)

 

Just go a set of these 'Vredestein Wintrac xtreme' Winter tyres

 

Running them over the last few days and I am impressed, they feel very positive & sticky.

 

 

255x19x35 W rated

http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Vredestein/Wintrac-4-Extreme.htm

 

[Cylawyer~SPARTA~]

Cool! Must avoid slippage.

[Forrester~SPARTA~]

a slippery road is a slippery road watch your horsepower.....

others might not have such fantastic tires... (vredestein snowtrack 3 205x55x16)

but hey I only have 110 horses and no quattro

[NoScream~SPARTA~]

I totally agree, problem is many don't prepare for changing weather.

 

 

As temperatures drop below 10 / 7 degrees Celsius (50/44 F) normal summer tyre rubber hardens to the point that it looses around 30% of it's natural traction from flex.

 

http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/safety/winter-tyres-in-the-uk.html

 

This is the first time I've personally fitted winter rated tyres and I can tell the difference.

The key is to drive, prepared and carefully.

http://www.mirror.co.uk/advice/most-popular/2010/11/26/winter-driving-myths-busted-tips-from-the-british-school-of-motoring-115875-22742786/

[CoBoL~SPARTA~]

I would just like to add my little advise to winter driving, here it comes:-

 

Battery/electrics

• Lights, heaters and windscreen wipers put high demands on the car battery. If the car is driven mainly in dark rush-hour trips, the battery will give out eventually.
• Batteries rarely last longer than five years, so replacing them near the end of their life can save a lot of time and inconvenience at the side of the road when they finally fizzle out.
• Avoid running car electrics any longer than necessary ? turn the heater fan down and switch the heated rear window off once windows are clear.
• If the car stands idle most of the weekend a regular overnight trickle charge is a good idea to give the battery a chance to revive.
• When you're starting up the car ensure that non-essentials like lights, rear screen heater and wipers are turned off.
• Use the starter in short five-second bursts if the engine doesn't start quickly, leaving thirty seconds between attempts to allow the battery to recover.

Antifreeze

• Antifreeze costs only a few pounds, but a cracked engine block will cost hundreds of pounds to repair.
• The majority of modern cars use long-life antifreeze, and it is absolutely essential that you don't mix these with other types as this can cause a sludge to form in the engine. If you're not sure what type of antifreeze is in your car, take it to a dealer.
• Traditional glycol-based antifreeze should be changed at least every two years.
• A 50-50 mix of antifreeze and water in the cooling system is needed in winter. This gives maximum protection down to -34° centigrade, and without it, severe engine damage costing hundreds of pounds can occur.
• If the fan belt squeals continually as soon as the engine is started, that is a sign the water pump is frozen. The cylinder block could be frozen too. Stop the engine immediately and allow it to thaw out. This may take several days unless you can get the car moved to a heated garage.
• Most commonly, it is just the radiator that freezes. The car will begin to overheat within a few miles of home, as the coolant is unable to circulate. Stop the car immediately and allow the radiator to thaw.

Vision

• Through the winter months dazzle from the low sun can be a particular problem.
• Improve vision significantly by making sure that the windscreen is clean ? inside and out. Scratches, abrasion and chips on the outside can also worsen the dazzling effect of the sun.
• If you're suffering from greasy smears on the screen that don't go with use of a normal screenwash additive then a little elbow grease is required. First try using a cream glass polish with a slight abrasive action. If that doesn't work then try dishwasher powder dissolved in a little water ? Use clean kitchen paper to clean a small area at a time and try not to go back over a patch you've just done.
• Use air conditioning for faster demisting and to reduce condensation on cold windows.
• Keep the windscreen and other windows clear ? if your vision is obscured through dirt, snow or even sticker-infested car windows you could face a hefty fine.
• Check windscreen wipers and replace if necessary.
• Make sure that wipers are switched off in the park position when leaving the car, when there's risk of freezing. If you don't and the blades freeze to the screen, you could damage the blades or wiper motor when you turn the ignition on.
• Windscreen washer fluid should be topped up and treated with a proprietary additive to reduce the chance of freezing in frosty weather. Don't use ordinary engine antifreeze as it will damage paintwork.
• Clear snow from the roof as well as from windows. Snow piled up on the roof can fall onto the windscreen obscuring your view and can also be a hazard to other road users.

Visibility

• Check that all bulbs are working and that headlights are clean and aimed correctly.
• You must use headlights when visibility is seriously reduced. You may also use front or rear fog lights but these must be switched off when visibility improves as they can dazzle other road users and obscure your brake lights.
• Keep the number plates clean too, as you can be fined if they are dirty and illegible.

Tyres

• Check all tyres for condition, pressure and tread depth. At least 3mm of tread is recommended for winter motoring, and certainly no less than 2mm.
• Don't reduce tyre pressures to get more grip ? it doesn't work, and reduces stability.
• Check you have a working jack and wheel brace, and that you know how to change a wheel if necessary.
• It's rare to need snow chains unless you live in an isolated area hit with heavy snow, and where the roads are not cleared. They must be removed to drive on a metalled road without a reasonable covering of snow.
• Buy snow chains from a specialist supplier to ensure that they're right for your vehicle, andpractice fitting them in good dry conditions.
• Consider changing to winter or all season tyres ? these have a higher silicone content in the tread which prevents it hardening at lower temperatures, and therefore gives better grip in cold wet conditions.

 

 

Preparing to travel

• Get up at least 10 minutes early to give you time to prepare the car.
• Don't drive off like a tank-commander, with a tiny hole cleared in your windscreen. Clear all windows of snow and ice using a scraper and de-icer.
• Use a cigarette lighter to warm a key for a frozen lock. Don't breathe on the lock, as the moisture will condense and freeze.
• Besides an ice scraper and de-icer, it's worth carrying a mobile phone with fully charged battery, torch, first-aid kit, tow rope, blankets, warm coat and boots, jump leads, snow shovel, warning triangle, an old sack or rug (to put under the wheels if you do get stuck) and water repellent spray.
• Plan routes to favour major roads which are more likely to have been gritted.
• Put safety before punctuality when the bad weather closes in. While it's always a good idea to allow extra time in winter for your journey, drivers must accept the inevitability of being late for work if they are caught up in an unexpected delay.

Driving in snow and ice

• Stopping distances are 10 times longer in ice and snow.
• Gentle manoeuvres are the key to safe driving.
• Wear comfortable, dry shoes: cumbersome, snow-covered boots will slip on the pedals.
• Select second gear when pulling away, easing your foot off the clutch gently to avoid wheel-spin.
• When climbing a hill it's important to avoid having to stop on the hill by waiting until it is clear of other cars or by leaving plenty of room between you and the car in front. Try to maintain aconstant speed, choosing the most suitable gear well in advance to avoid having to change down on the hill.
• When driving downhill, reduce your speed before the hill, use a low gear and try to avoid using the brakes. Leave as much room as possible between you and the car in front.
• Always apply brakes gently. Release them and de-clutch if the car skids.
• If you have an automatic, then under normal driving conditions (motorways, etc) it's best to select 'Drive' and let the gearbox do the work throughout the full gear range. In slippery, snowy conditions you can make driving much safer by selecting '2', which limits the gear changes and also makes you less reliant on the brakes. Many modern autos have a 'Winter' mode which locks out first gear to reduce the risk of wheel spin. Check the handbook if you're not sure.
• If you do get stuck, straighten the steering and clear the snow from the wheels. Put a sack or old rug in front of the driving wheels to give the tyres some grip. Once on the move again, try not to stop until you reach firmer ground.

Floods and standing water

• Only drive through water if you know that it's not too deep for your car.
• Drive slowly and steadily to avoid creating a bow wave. Allow oncoming traffic to pass first and test your brakes as soon as you can after leaving the water.
• Don't try driving through fast-moving water, such as at a flooded bridge approach ? your car could easily be swept away.
• Driving fast through standing water is dangerous ? tyres lose contact with the road and you lose steering control in what's known as 'aquaplaning'. Watch out for standing water, trying to avoid it if you can, and adjust your speed to the conditions. If you do experience aquaplaning, hold the steering wheel lightly and lift off the throttle until the tyres regain grip.
• Driving fast through standing water is inconsiderate ?driving through water at speeds above a slow crawl can result in water being thrown onto pavements, soaking pedestrians or cyclists. You could face a hefty fine and between three and nine penalty points if the police believe you were driving without reasonable consideration to other road users.
• Driving fast through standing water can cause expensive damage ? the air intake on many cars is low down at the front of the engine bay and it only takes a small quantity of water sucked into the engine to cause serious damage. All engines are affected but turbo-charged and diesel engines are most vulnerable.
• As you drive slowly through standing water keep the engine rev's high by using a lower gear, otherwise water in the exhaust could damage the catalytic convertor.
• If you break down in heavy rain don't prop the bonnet open while you wait for the patrol to arrive ? the engine will be more difficult to start again if the electrics are all rain-soaked.

You get that !!!!!!!!!!!!!, LOL

[Elvis~SPARTA~]

Very nice.

 

Don't drive through standing water, meaning that if it is touching your engine or chassis, you're doing it wrong.

 

If you're really into cold weather, the engine block heater is a wonderful device (approaching -15C tomorrow at the Rancho de Elvis)

 

In the Sierra Nevada we always used to raise our windshield wipers prior to a snowstorm to prevent them from sticking to the windows. This isn't necessary with Utah snow as is is quite dry, and doesn't generally freeze them to the glass. Your snow may vary....

 

 

Oh, and tyres... always apply a liberal coating of oil to your tyres to help prevent water adhesion. This is especially important when driving in the rain. To avoid hydroplaning, make sure you keep up your speed, and if you see deep water, head through it as fast as you can with your oiled up tyres. I'm not personally sure of this, but I heard some guy on the radio say this.

Edited November 28, 2010 by Elvis~SPARTA~

[NoScream~SPARTA~]

My 2007 A6 Quattro is full of toys but this 2011/12 Audi A6 blows me away for tech.

£44,000 - £90,000 range

 

I like this, nice 'google earth' sat nav uplink among other toys. 3D mapping.

Full colour heads up display, wifi hotspot, 3G. applet, street view, hand writing input.

Coupe/salon/petrol/diesel/hybrid.

 

Powered dash (Nvidia Tegra 2 dual core CPU & GPU)

 

HEADS UP COLOUR

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JOjedA9HoY&feature=related

 

 

other info.

h*ttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfN4VY1ocoI&NR=1

[Athlon64~SPARTA~]

I agree with Viii, Batterys loose charge closer to 0, cranking amps drop. Some cars come equiped with a blanket around the battery, and some with a actual battery heater.When a battery gets a few years old, and along comes the first cold spell, they usually die. I have historicly used delco or die hard batterys in the past allways worked good for me. If you want to test your battery to see if its up to the par. Get a digital volt ohm meter put it on dc 20 volt scale, hook it up to the battery and pull the ecm fuse from power block and crank the engine for 10 seconds it should not go below 9.6 volt. If it does then replace it. Generally speaking it should not go below 9.6 v at hafe the rated cold cranking amps listed on the batterys lable.

 

Been a few years sence i have lived in the frozen zone, reading this brough back some memorys. Also don't dump hot water on the windscreen/windsheild as it will break. Start it up and scrape it off or let it runn and warm up useing the defrosters on. We used to have to get up a hour earler to get all the cars started and cleaned off.

 

I highly recomend the engine block heater. They have them on the crash trucks with a 110v auto eject plug. They used engine block heaters/battery charger/ and a mini air compressor for keeping the air thanks full. wile in house.When you crank the engine, it spitts out the plug and away you go.

The newer standards for ambulances have a roof top a/c unit that runns in a/c only, wile in the station it keeps the unit cool in summer. when ready for a run it allready cool so when the truck starts up the a/c in the truck doesent have to work its butt off the cool it.

 

It also pays to flush out the cooling system of your car every year and refill with new coolant, its also a good idea to change the thermostat at the same time for trouble free operation. Use only high quality thermostats, eather OEM or Stant mfger. Use the same tempture rated thermostat that came out. Prestone makes a nice little back flush kitt that hooks up into the heater hose that allows you to hook up a garden hose to it after draining out the old coolant to back flush the system. They work well. I have seen engine blocks cracked from being frozen. Shame to waste a $4,000 engine buy not adding a $10 jugg of antifreeze. Allways mix water in with the new antifreeze, don't use pure antifreeze. it has to be mixed with water to absorb the heat from the engine properly.

Edited March 17, 2011 by Athlon64~SPARTA~

[NoScream~SPARTA~]

Audi MMI 2G Europa v5.12.5 2011

Year / Date of Release: 2011

Version: 5.12.5

 

 

4E0 060 884 CJ - Europe Edition 2011

 

 

For Audi MMI HIGH 2005-2009 (colour)

 

 

3.2Gb file if anyone needs, Europe inc. U.K.

 

 

 

 

No mmi update needed in order to get new maps working. map dvd will update some stuff by itself. just insert dvd, press [NAV], accept and wait 2 minutes, then press [RETURN] when asked to, and after reboot you have new maps working.

 

Languages

German, English, French, Italian, Dutch, Portuguese, Spanish.

 

A4 Avant (Mj.2009)

A4 Limousine (Mj.2008 - 2009)

A5 (Mj.2008 - 2009)

S5 (Mj.2008 - 2009)

A6 allroad quattro (Mj.2007 - 2009)

A6 Avant (Mj.2005 - 2009)

A6 Limousine (Mj.2005 - 2009)

A8 (Mj.2003 - 2007)

 

 

Austria (TMC), Andorra, Belgium (TMC), Czech Republic (TMC), Denmark (TMC), Estonia, Finland, France (TMC), Greece, Ireland, Italy (TMC), Croatia, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg , Hungary, Monaco, Germany (TMC), Netherlands (TMC), Norway, Poland, Portugal, San Marino, Sweden (TMC), Switzerland (TMC), Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain (TMC), Vatican, Great Britain (TMC) .

 

 

 

.