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Rail Buggy project


Athlon64~SPARTA~
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That now is looking the Biz, well done m8. I know how hard it can be, and what people see from one picture to the next is that they don't realize how many hours in between each photo it actual takes.

 

Hope your proud of what you have done so far, can't wait to see the finished buggy. And when it's finished we don't just want pictures, but a video with audio. :thumbsup_anim:

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sweet work Athlon.

I really like your emergency brake assembly you fabricated. Looks exactly like we discussed doing it. Your idea looks great and it appears it will work as well as it looks. :thumbsup:

 

The steering shaft seems to be coming together... aren't steering shafts alot of fun? :rolleyes:

In any case, keep her going, she's is going to be fun to drive I think.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Your doing a great job!! :) Many years ago a friend and I built a VW dunebuggy. We wanted more power so we used a Corvair engine (6 cylinder). We bought a engine adaptor for the VW transaxle and it worked great. Only problem we didn't know you had to flop the ring and pinion. So when we got it running we had 6 reverse gears and 1 forward, LOL!!

We finally got it right and it ran real well.

Keep up the great work :)

 

DaCapt

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  • 2 weeks later...

wat about not having a "hood" but making it a hot rod dune buggy with the motor sticking out the top would make you look so cool and impress the ladys. would consider doing the same thing with my car but then the problem of being able to see comes into play :)

 

good work on the car its nice to be able to watch this come together steap by steap over this thread, will make a very intresting read when you have compleated the project.

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Well I understand what your saying about getting it done at a sheetmetal shop.

In addition, they usually refuse to do it unless you give them the measurements and let them to all the layout and cutting before using the bender. That adds more reasons for them to raise the price.

 

I have an idea for your hood that might work with the 16 gage sheet.

It would be easier to explain verbally but I will try to write it. (look me up after you read this)

Essentially this will make a cheap homemade metal break.

 

-After deciding what radius you want at the bend, do your sheetmetal layout (If you need the standard distances, I would use the calculations used for aircraft sheet metal bends)

-Make a straight cut at 45 degrees where the front radius is going to intersect the side radius.

-Measure across that layout and you have a diameter of pipe. You could also work backwards by using pipe to "eyeball" what you think is going to look right. Obtain the needed pipe and sand the surface show imperfections that may need filed off. (you could probably use thick walled pvc pipe)

-Use a 4x4 (extra straight) to clamp the sheet to a table or flat surface with the inside line of the radius on the edge.

-Clamp the pipe to the edge of the table up against the sheetmetal. (very sturdy as movement would suck!)

-Clamp the outside section of the sheet to a 2x6 and slowly push down to make your bend across the edge of the table on the pipe.

-Do the same at the front. You can use epoxy with or without rivets at the corners where you blend the front to side. This will chemically weld edges and give you something to sand for a smooth look.

**Make sure you don't use too much hardner if it is a fast drying epoxy as it gets really hot (but still cooler than a welder)

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