Donziboy2 Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Sadly most manufacturers are going from 1900x1200 to the tv standard 1900x1080, nobody is bothering with 1900x1200 anymore. Its cheaper to make 1080p screens and pretend that nobody wants 1200. If it is 16:9 its a tv not a monitor. There isnt a single 1900x1200 LCD with Backlight LED listed on newegg, most likely due to the fact that Backlit LED's are something you find on TV's. 2ms response rate.... 0.002 so thats 500 refreshes a second.... thats nice for a 60hz screen...... It could be 7ms and 10 years old and you would not see a difference. I like how they list the contrast ratio's to... 23" DCR 5,000,000:1 (1000:1), 24" DC 20000:1 (1000:1) so erm they are both 1000:1? OK rant over.. That does indeed look like a good deal for a 1080p Monitor. I payed $800 for my current Dell 2407wfp in late 2007, they where 950$ when released in early 2007. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster90 Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 I think the (1000:1) means that's the lowest contrast ratio it can use. Most monitors you can flip through different ratios, but most people will just stay at the max. I'm not too worried about pushing 1900x1200 for a native 16:10 ratio. It would just put more stress on my video card(s). If I can find a decent 1680x1050 that's new I'd be just as happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoScream~SPARTA~ Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Sadly most manufacturers are going from 1900x1200 to the tv standard 1900x1080, nobody is bothering with 1900x1200 anymore. Its cheaper to make 1080p screens and pretend that nobody wants 1200. If it is 16:9 its a tv not a monitor. There isnt a single 1900x1200 LCD with Backlight LED listed on newegg, most likely due to the fact that Backlit LED's are something you find on TV's. 2ms response rate.... 0.002 so thats 500 refreshes a second.... thats nice for a 60hz screen...... It could be 7ms and 10 years old and you would not see a difference. I like how they list the contrast ratio's to... 23" DCR 5,000,000:1 (1000:1), 24" DC 20000:1 (1000:1) so erm they are both 1000:1? OK rant over.. That does indeed look like a good deal for a 1080p Monitor. I payed $800 for my current Dell 2407wfp in late 2007, they where 950$ when released in early 2007. Most Manufactures are flooding the cheap 1920x1080 to the market for a reason, it's TN 16:9 ratio (not 16:10) is far cheaper for them to make, easier for them to make and higher profit for them compared to 16:10 1920x1200, a simple check will show you. Prices of 1920x1200 v 1920x1080 are defiantly alot higher for 1920x1200, so sales a lower... not because they a more expensive but because their quality is professional grade. Dell UltraSharp U2410 24" Widescreen LCD Monitor 16:10 An expensive monitor Benq XL2410T 24" TRUE 120Hz 3D Widescreen LED Monitor 16:9 The most expensive 1920x1080 Nearly 50% cheaper A glance at it's manufacturers specs will show you why..... Pity many are being suckered in by the manufacturers..... well it's a recession... All 16:9 top 2011 monitors, how sad... http://computers.toptenreviews.com/monitors/ BEST MONITORS as opposed to BEST SELLERS http://reviews.cnet.co.uk/browse/rating/monitors/n-6jp/ IF you buy a 16:9 monitor and put it next to a 16:10 you don't have to say anything ..... It's SAD.... Long live my 16:10 24" panels ! p.s. Beware of TN panel monitors !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donziboy2 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Sadly from what i've been able to find there are only about 7-10 LCD Panel makers worldwide. And they are all vying for market share. They are also doing what consumers want, making cheap panels. The average Joe doesn't care about resolution, he is just going to surf the web, play farm ville or the Sims. BTW, dont throw out acronyms without noting what they mean. Acronyms are only useful when you have to reapeat them multiple times or your a cheapskate using a crappy phone. Scroll down for TN If I had a dollar for every time I had to look up an acronym I could pay the US National Dept by now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MedicSN6 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Sadly from what i've been able to find there are only about 7-10 LCD Panel makers worldwide. And they are all vying for market share. They are also doing what consumers want, making cheap panels. The average Joe doesn't care about resolution, he is just going to surf the web, play farm ville or the Sims. BTW, dont throw out acronyms without noting what they mean. Acronyms are only useful when you have to reapeat them multiple times or your a cheapskate using a crappy phone. Scroll down for TN If I had a dollar for every time I had to look up an acronym I could pay the US National Dept by now. Thanks Donzi, I was wondering what TN meant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoScream~SPARTA~ Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 BTW, dont throw out acronyms without noting what they mean. Acronyms are only useful when you have to reapeat them multiple times or your a cheapskate using a crappy phone. Scroll down for TN If I had a dollar for every time I had to look up an acronym I could pay the US National Dept by now. L.C.D. = Liquid crystal display http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_crystal_display L.E.D. = Light Emitting Diode http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode If your going to criticize people from using acronyms, I suggest you do it to all and not a chosen few. Can we assume, you did not point out LCD & LED because you believed everyone knows? http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/index.php?app=forums&module=forums§ion=findpost&pid=68632 http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8025&view=findpost&p=68366 CPU, BLCK, OS, BTW Your posts are riddled with Acronyms with no explanation... lastly take some of your own advice DO YOUR HOMEWORK!!!! How hard is it in the 21st century to GOOGLE (www.google.com) 'TN & MONITORS' lecture over... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donziboy2 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 If you really have to tell someone what CPU, OS, LCD, LED, and BTW mean then they should crawl back under the rock. As for BCLK, it is specific to a question already asked and I wasn't the first person to post that acronym. I am not going play Troll Games. /Retort Over I am only going to answer rooster90 from this point on in this post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoScream~SPARTA~ Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Excuses? Anyway, I'm sure the OP (opening post) appreciates all info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster90 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 (edited) Ordered my new computer today. Not looking for intense scrutiny, but rather I want to ask: What exactly is the benefit of running your OS on a SSD? Obviously my boot time will be much faster. But how exactly does it boost my system performance overall? If my games and applications that I use all the time will be on my slave/data drive (since there's plenty of space for them) wouldn't the read/write time of that drive bottleneck any sort of performance boost gained by the SSD? Or is there something I'm missing? New Rig: CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-2600K 3.40 GHz 8M Intel Smart Cache LGA1155 (All Venom OC Certified) COOLING: Asetek 550LC Liquid Cooling System 120MM Radiator & Fan (Advanced Cooling Performance + Extreme Silent at 20dBA) (Dual Standard 120MM Fans (Push-Pull) HDD1: 80 GB Intel X25-M 2.5 inch SATA Gaming MLC Solid State Disk HDD2: 1TB SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 64MB Cache 7200RPM HDD MEMORY: G.Skill Ripjaws X 8GB (4GBx2) DDR3/1333MHz Dual Channel Memory (timing: 9-9-9-24) MOTHERBOARD: MSI P67A-GD65 (B3) Intel P67 Chipset DDR3 ATX Mainboard w/ 7.1 HD Audio, GbLAN, USB3.0, 4x SATA-III RAID, 2 Gen2 PCIe, 3 PCIe X1 & 2 PCI [b3 Stepping] MOUSE: Razer Deathadder 3500 DPI High Precision 3.5G Infrared Gaming Mouse OS: Microsoft® Windows® 7 Professional (64-bit Edition) POWERSUPPLY: 850 Watts - Corsair CMPSU-850TX 80 Plus Power Supply - Quad SLI Ready SOUND: Creative Labs SB X-Fi Xtreme Audio 24-BIT PCI Sound Card VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB 16X PCIe Video Card (EVGA Superclocked) Thanks for all the tips/opinions/advice everyone! (I may upgrade the RAM later on down the line to a higher clock speed, but Newegg has a pretty good price on that pair right now. I know Viper, I didn't use triple channel w/DDR3. But the price of going that direction outweighed the actual performance increase. I have friends with 4GB of DDR3 and they like it just fine.) Edited April 4, 2011 by Rooster90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoScream~SPARTA~ Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 SSD gives you faster transfer, just compare the specs for READ DATA of the SSD with the HDD your interested in. Now, divide one into the other to give you the ratio (normally the big figure divided by the small figure). 456Kb/s v 128Kb/s 456/128 = 3.5:1 ratio (drive 1 is 3 1/2 times faster on read, the bit that counts for speed), nuff said. Also remember the reliability factor An average SSD has a life expectancy of 15-17 years.... remember most HDD's die after 2-7 years p.s. other good factors to look for in SSD are models with power fail data write (you loose no data from CACHE). but it normally costs a bit more.... You won't be putting games on the boot SSD, unless you are rich and buy a big one.... IF you buy an SSD below 100-120Gb your looking for trouble around 12 months down the line with DRIVE FULL. BOOT SSD's are for the OS (Windows etc) and your main DRIVERS like graphics etc.... Apps & games load into memory RAM !! DDRx and store user data on BOOT only. REMEMBER FORMATTED SSD or HDD, are always lower in GB than the size sold (unformatted size). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster90 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Yup, way ahead of you there Viper. Just asking hypotheticals since I've never had a master/slave drive setup before, let alone one with an SSD. I would never plan on installing my games and applications onto the SSD. I'm pretty good at managing my disks. I defrag at least once or twice a month and clean out all the garbage off my drives every 3-4 months. If necessary I'll do a complete reformat every 1-2 years. So when I download/update my drivers I would actually want to save and install those onto the SSD and not my standard HDD, correct? Outside of my OS and my drivers, are there any other important files that I should be aware of when managing this type of setup? I have a pretty good idea of what not to put on it (Games, Steam, Music, Videos, all/most applications) but I'm inexperienced as to what should stay on the master/boot drive. Also, (and this might be a horribly stupid question) when I do get it and download Steam and start installing back my games, I would want to download my Steam app to my bigger HDD from the start and install it onto that drive and not in the SSD, correct? Again, this is all new to me, not sure how the whole master/slave system works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoScream~SPARTA~ Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Note: there is no MASTER/SLAVE on SATA, each drive has it's own BUS to the controller. SATA 3Gb/s SATA II 6Gb/s max unless you have aboard sharing SATA channels. That's Giga bits per second & not bytes (approx 10X in bits) so 3Gb/s is around 0.3GB/s or 300MB/s, SATA II is twice the BUS. As for STEAM I'm no expert.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeno~SPARTA~ Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Re Steam thats right. Steam is all on one drive so eventually its too big for affordable SSDs. I have arma2 CO on my SSD and all other games (Including all steam games) on my E drive. Arma2 benefits from a fast drive during gameplay. Thats why I have ARMA on DVD not steam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewman~SPARTA~ Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 So Rooster have you built it? Are you pleased? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donziboy2 Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Looks good. Regarding SSD's i've actually been reading up on them. From what I have been able to find reading forums from different sites I have found you will get best results with your Page File active on your SSD. The biggest thing that slows games down is when they need to load a file. If that file is not on your page file but instead on your slower HD then it makes the games stutter. You probably only need an 8gb page file since Win7 does a decent job of keeping things in Ram, far better then Vista. I will refrain from nitpicking since you have already ordered the parts and its a pain in the arse to have to send stuff back and then wait for other things ;) Good Luck with your build, as for me i'm still staring at my wish list in Newegg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batwing~SPARTA~ Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Congrats ! It looks a very nice build ! Only one question about the Videocard.. I am not Nvidia expert but why 560 and not 570 or 580? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster90 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 (edited) Yeah, I wish there was a way to split my Steam directory. When it all gets here, I may experiment with moving (or duplicating) just the ARMA2 stuff onto the SSD. It may be possible to do this since I don't necessarily need Steam to launch it (Arma2 Launcher ftw!). The only snag I foresee are when patches are released. I would have to dl the updates via Steam, then duplicate the update onto the SSD. Or something. I know people have tried to install new updates to their Steam version manually w/o Steam, but I'm not sure how complex that would actually be. @Batwing: I originally had 2 ATI 5770's in this build. After talking with some of the ATI fellows here, Zeno included, I decided to steer clear of ATI due to driver issues with a lot of games. Was going to go to a more comparable 480, but the website I built it from had a deal where it was a free upgrade to a 560 from a 460. Did some research on the 560 and as far as new mid-range Nvidia cards go, the 560 is more than worth it's price in performance. This opened up more money to spend elsewhere on the system, including much better liquid cooling, more fans, a better case, and a bigger PSU. To reiterate from an early post, this is just a base to build up from. Why spend big money on the latest and greatest now when in a few months time they'll be the same price as the mid-range card I just bought? Besides, going from the computer I had, I'll probably think this is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Old computer: OS: Windows 7 32-bit CPU: AMD 7800+ BE Dual Core 2.8 GHz (3.1 OC) RAM: 4 GB DDR2 (2x2GB, could only utilize 3.25 of it) GPU: Nvidia GTS 250 1GB DDR3 HDD: 450 GB PSU: 650W Corsair No cooling, only 1 exhaust fan was operational in the back. Had to remove the side panel of the case in order to keep it at a proper temperature, exposing the hardware to dust. Absolutely horribly ventilated case. Not slacking on cooling and air-flow this time around, burned through 3 PSU's overheating. EDIT: Here's a video showcasing a very similar build with 4GB less RAM. Edited April 4, 2011 by Rooster90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirSmokalot Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Nice! I like those stats of the new Sandybridge CPU's, but waiting for the Llano's to arrive and their benchmarks. But I'm an AMD guy since they have a major local presence here in Austin. As far as the Video card, realm, have always used ATI (NOW AMD people, like last year they changed the name lol), I don't blame you moving from crossfire as more people have problems with SLI and Crossfire profiles then anything. That's completely different from Drivers though, even though, sometimes they are packaged with drivers. Another common misconception. But in reference to "drivers" if you tweak drivers outside some normal realms or defaults for your personal flavor (or install them incorrectly for that matter), some games might have problems with driver, hence "driver" issues. Also most games like to control Anti-Alaising and Anistropic Filtering (namely EA games). So common misconception is making custom settings in this regard (AA, AF, etc) in the driver and then expect them to work in the game when in addition you're modifying them in game as well. It doesn't matter who the manufacture is (nV or AMD) be sure to set your settings to application controlled as much as possible (for AA and AF) and you wont have that many driver issues. This is common issue when it comes to "ATI" driver issues or performance. Also another common problem associated with drivers is going beyond the potential of the hardware. With that setup I think you should be ok but don't be surprised if you gotta back it off a bit next year or year after. Another setting to visit is LCD optimization and scaling to avoid what Batwing was talking about with Tearing. Vsync is critical in this regard and ATI/AMD has settings to optimize for this. Hope that machine does good though for ya in the long term man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Athlon64~SPARTA~ Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) Im waiting for that new AMD Bulldozer 6 core to come out as well. *Its suppost to whip intells $1000 chip. Edited April 5, 2011 by Athlon64~SPARTA~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donziboy2 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Im waiting for that new AMD Bulldozer 6 core to come out as well. *Its suppost to whip intells $1000 chip. Intels 2500k does that already Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoScream~SPARTA~ Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Ordered my new computer today....... MOTHERBOARD: MSI P67A-GD65 (B3) Intel P67 Chipset DDR3 ATX Mainboard w/ 7.1 HD Audio, GbLAN, USB3.0, 4x SATA-III RAID, 2 Gen2 PCIe, 3 PCIe X1 & 2 PCI [b3 Stepping] You might wanna read this...... http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8096&pid=69079&st=0entry69079 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KalXen~SPARTA~ Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 You might wanna read this...... http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8096&pid=69079&st=0entry69079 Uhm, I can't read. I'm hypnotized by your signature line.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoScream~SPARTA~ Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 I'll make is simple, all the breasts were RECALLED by INTELL, fault in the Wobble controller on all P67 & H67 chipset motherboards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster90 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 I saw that, but aren't revision 3 (B3) versions of the chipset unaffected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donziboy2 Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 B3 is the replacement for the defective R1/2. B3 has been out for over a month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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