CoBoL~SPARTA~

Just a quick Q, why you playing SH 1 and SH 4 and not SH 5, or is it just no good, or prev SH where on a steam special for a couple of bucks. Coz I was looking on steam to buy it.

Stick a month on, see where you at. And see if any of the lads can help.

Between 365m and 375m for a 30 day.

You can bud, check this out. DarkGame Studio

Your IT department are not doing it right, when I ran a IT department that's how I got my upgrades

Ok got me a copy of L4D2 and TF2, we have a server running or something.

Advanced Combat Radio Environment

I have it too

It's there for me also.

Well bought it, it's no simulator for sure. But what it is not arcade and not simulator, if you ever played the Comanche series it's like that, and I enjoyed them days. And great fun to fly and shoot shit. I can see a few playing this that are not hardcore sim fans and even sim fans having a blast literally, it does work with foot pedals, X52 no problem, only thing I had to do was set the sensitivity down a little. Not tried Track IR yet but I am sure that will work. See you in the skys for some co-op and dog fights.

You get this fixed Z, Wanted to buy myself.

If only pigs could fly.......wait a min whats this

Not sure about this one, it's ok for the lazy players that could not be arsed to train. Only saving grace is how many more attrib points did I have, and how many more SP I got ahead, and what will I spend my 5mil SP on. I liked learning skills, did most of them from day one ish. Well maybe a year on to be honest.

How you got v11 when adobe latest version is 10.1.102.64, Plus at the start your plug-in name starts with "Adobe Flash Player 10", would it not start with 11. And you dates are older than mine yet it's newer. You would not be doing a little photo shop here mr Viiiper would you. Ant trying to confuse the crap out of me. Check you version here it tells you. Tinker

In a attempt to make all flash banners on the forums compatible with all browsers, can you tell me what version of flash plug-in you have. And do you see the same as me. Test Flash This is what the test should look like. Or It could look like this. And to find what version you have, goto control panel, programs. And see what version is installed on machine. Thanks Cobs

I would just like to add my little advise to winter driving, here it comes:- Battery/electrics Lights, heaters and windscreen wipers put high demands on the car battery. If the car is driven mainly in dark rush-hour trips, the battery will give out eventually. Batteries rarely last longer than five years, so replacing them near the end of their life can save a lot of time and inconvenience at the side of the road when they finally fizzle out. Avoid running car electrics any longer than necessary ? turn the heater fan down and switch the heated rear window off once windows are clear. If the car stands idle most of the weekend a regular overnight trickle charge is a good idea to give the battery a chance to revive. When you're starting up the car ensure that non-essentials like lights, rear screen heater and wipers are turned off. Use the starter in short five-second bursts if the engine doesn't start quickly, leaving thirty seconds between attempts to allow the battery to recover. Antifreeze Antifreeze costs only a few pounds, but a cracked engine block will cost hundreds of pounds to repair. The majority of modern cars use long-life antifreeze, and it is absolutely essential that you don't mix these with other types as this can cause a sludge to form in the engine. If you're not sure what type of antifreeze is in your car, take it to a dealer. Traditional glycol-based antifreeze should be changed at least every two years. A 50-50 mix of antifreeze and water in the cooling system is needed in winter. This gives maximum protection down to -34° centigrade, and without it, severe engine damage costing hundreds of pounds can occur. If the fan belt squeals continually as soon as the engine is started, that is a sign the water pump is frozen. The cylinder block could be frozen too. Stop the engine immediately and allow it to thaw out. This may take several days unless you can get the car moved to a heated garage. Most commonly, it is just the radiator that freezes. The car will begin to overheat within a few miles of home, as the coolant is unable to circulate. Stop the car immediately and allow the radiator to thaw. Vision Through the winter months dazzle from the low sun can be a particular problem. Improve vision significantly by making sure that the windscreen is clean ? inside and out. Scratches, abrasion and chips on the outside can also worsen the dazzling effect of the sun. If you're suffering from greasy smears on the screen that don't go with use of a normal screenwash additive then a little elbow grease is required. First try using a cream glass polish with a slight abrasive action. If that doesn't work then try dishwasher powder dissolved in a little water ? Use clean kitchen paper to clean a small area at a time and try not to go back over a patch you've just done. Use air conditioning for faster demisting and to reduce condensation on cold windows. Keep the windscreen and other windows clear ? if your vision is obscured through dirt, snow or even sticker-infested car windows you could face a hefty fine. Check windscreen wipers and replace if necessary. Make sure that wipers are switched off in the park position when leaving the car, when there's risk of freezing. If you don't and the blades freeze to the screen, you could damage the blades or wiper motor when you turn the ignition on. Windscreen washer fluid should be topped up and treated with a proprietary additive to reduce the chance of freezing in frosty weather. Don't use ordinary engine antifreeze as it will damage paintwork. Clear snow from the roof as well as from windows. Snow piled up on the roof can fall onto the windscreen obscuring your view and can also be a hazard to other road users. Visibility Check that all bulbs are working and that headlights are clean and aimed correctly. You must use headlights when visibility is seriously reduced. You may also use front or rear fog lights but these must be switched off when visibility improves as they can dazzle other road users and obscure your brake lights. Keep the number plates clean too, as you can be fined if they are dirty and illegible. Tyres Check all tyres for condition, pressure and tread depth. At least 3mm of tread is recommended for winter motoring, and certainly no less than 2mm. Don't reduce tyre pressures to get more grip ? it doesn't work, and reduces stability. Check you have a working jack and wheel brace, and that you know how to change a wheel if necessary. It's rare to need snow chains unless you live in an isolated area hit with heavy snow, and where the roads are not cleared. They must be removed to drive on a metalled road without a reasonable covering of snow. Buy snow chains from a specialist supplier to ensure that they're right for your vehicle, andpractice fitting them in good dry conditions. Consider changing to winter or all season tyres ? these have a higher silicone content in the tread which prevents it hardening at lower temperatures, and therefore gives better grip in cold wet conditions. Preparing to travel Get up at least 10 minutes early to give you time to prepare the car. Don't drive off like a tank-commander, with a tiny hole cleared in your windscreen. Clear all windows of snow and ice using a scraper and de-icer. Use a cigarette lighter to warm a key for a frozen lock. Don't breathe on the lock, as the moisture will condense and freeze. Besides an ice scraper and de-icer, it's worth carrying a mobile phone with fully charged battery, torch, first-aid kit, tow rope, blankets, warm coat and boots, jump leads, snow shovel, warning triangle, an old sack or rug (to put under the wheels if you do get stuck) and water repellent spray. Plan routes to favour major roads which are more likely to have been gritted. Put safety before punctuality when the bad weather closes in. While it's always a good idea to allow extra time in winter for your journey, drivers must accept the inevitability of being late for work if they are caught up in an unexpected delay. Driving in snow and ice Stopping distances are 10 times longer in ice and snow. Gentle manoeuvres are the key to safe driving. Wear comfortable, dry shoes: cumbersome, snow-covered boots will slip on the pedals. Select second gear when pulling away, easing your foot off the clutch gently to avoid wheel-spin. When climbing a hill it's important to avoid having to stop on the hill by waiting until it is clear of other cars or by leaving plenty of room between you and the car in front. Try to maintain aconstant speed, choosing the most suitable gear well in advance to avoid having to change down on the hill. When driving downhill, reduce your speed before the hill, use a low gear and try to avoid using the brakes. Leave as much room as possible between you and the car in front. Always apply brakes gently. Release them and de-clutch if the car skids. If you have an automatic, then under normal driving conditions (motorways, etc) it's best to select 'Drive' and let the gearbox do the work throughout the full gear range. In slippery, snowy conditions you can make driving much safer by selecting '2', which limits the gear changes and also makes you less reliant on the brakes. Many modern autos have a 'Winter' mode which locks out first gear to reduce the risk of wheel spin. Check the handbook if you're not sure. If you do get stuck, straighten the steering and clear the snow from the wheels. Put a sack or old rug in front of the driving wheels to give the tyres some grip. Once on the move again, try not to stop until you reach firmer ground. Floods and standing water Only drive through water if you know that it's not too deep for your car. Drive slowly and steadily to avoid creating a bow wave. Allow oncoming traffic to pass first and test your brakes as soon as you can after leaving the water. Don't try driving through fast-moving water, such as at a flooded bridge approach ? your car could easily be swept away. Driving fast through standing water is dangerous ? tyres lose contact with the road and you lose steering control in what's known as 'aquaplaning'. Watch out for standing water, trying to avoid it if you can, and adjust your speed to the conditions. If you do experience aquaplaning, hold the steering wheel lightly and lift off the throttle until the tyres regain grip. Driving fast through standing water is inconsiderate ?driving through water at speeds above a slow crawl can result in water being thrown onto pavements, soaking pedestrians or cyclists. You could face a hefty fine and between three and nine penalty points if the police believe you were driving without reasonable consideration to other road users. Driving fast through standing water can cause expensive damage ? the air intake on many cars is low down at the front of the engine bay and it only takes a small quantity of water sucked into the engine to cause serious damage. All engines are affected but turbo-charged and diesel engines are most vulnerable. As you drive slowly through standing water keep the engine rev's high by using a lower gear, otherwise water in the exhaust could damage the catalytic convertor. If you break down in heavy rain don't prop the bonnet open while you wait for the patrol to arrive ? the engine will be more difficult to start again if the electrics are all rain-soaked. You get that !!!!!!!!!!!!!, LOL

Must get back soon.

I think it's all down to design and power, my monty only weighs 68kg. And has the torque to pull the moon closer to the earth. And the bike is so well ballanced it's un true, it almost stands up by itself. But ye it's great fun and what a work out it, I was in bed for 10pm.

All the best bud, come round to the pub for a few beers.

Four years since I had my last one, did a silly thing once. Tried to ride up a 16ft Vertical mud face cliff. Manage to get sump guard on top but then slowly fell backwards. Managed to land on one leg with all my weight (lots of it) and damaged my knee could not walk for weeks, wife then said your selling it. What am I talking about. Here's a old photo. Well I have been a good boy lately and managed to convince the boss that I won't be as silly (Big Grin). Sorry Vii the Audi might have to wait a little as a good friend of ours as also purchased one (yes Dunning and soon to be Mac). Who kindly helped me convince the wife he can't go out alone and neither can I. So here she is the new mistress. She's not new but she will do, She's a 2008 Montesa Cota 4RT, 250cc and looking forward to getting her upto some mischief this weekend. She come complete with a few mods 2 stage Throttle body with switchable map, programmed by MSPORT. Frame mounted kill switch Control footrests H&D rear brake pedal S3 titanium front pipe Stainless steel front pipe clip Anodized alloy gold bolt kit Gold reservoir caps Gold tank breather Gold future trial case protector Red silicone coolant hoses and breather kit REP top yoke Try-all fat bars Custom Mitani stickers Up-rated suspension linkages

Dude when you get stuck in snow, give me a ring. This is my formula for snow. +=

I know what you mean, I get it in FF, but not chrome or IE 9. Will look into it.

Show me a pic coz I get this