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Xmas is almost here and finally my SSD :) - need final suggestion


Batwing~SPARTA~
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So guys,

 

here is the thing, using my g/f as a "special fund" (LOL)I will probably get an SSD Sata 3.

 

However, I am a bit new and I have 1 BIG PROBLEM: My MB X58 is a SATA 2. I know in a few months I am going to upgrade and i ll move to SATA 3, so I wanna be sure I can get a pretty good SATA 3 now BEING SURE CAN WORK ON SATA 2 at the moment.

 

So, I saw this one and I like it:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147134

 

Can some of you let me know if this model would work on SATA 2?

 

Thx guys :0

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Well i have 4 wheels to pour money into right now, and dam near done, so maybe later, a new machine. Waiting for a worthy game to justify a new box. I think it will be a 8 core unlocked water cooled monster with crome exhaust pipes sticking out the sides and maybe a live fire pait job on it. HOT ROD P/C! LOL! maybe get a turbo charger off a honda for a cpu cooler LOL!

Wonder how many pounds of turbo boost it will take to cool it, LOL! Hook the waste gate controll up to the vid card bios> Throttle up!

 

I got that brand new tig welder, maybe make my own case out of shiny bright alumnium diemond plate And lots of multi color L.E.Ds and cold cathode lighting. COOL!

Edited by Athlon64~SPARTA~
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Man that sure gets me to thinking tho. I could build a double motherboard and power supplys in one case, case. Or a tower as tall as i want. If i can drill out a dash panel for gauges, Then 5 1/4 bays wouldent be a problem at all. How about a server and gamer in one case, with as many power supplys as one would want. WOW let the emagination run with that thought. Come up with a design and lets explore the possibilitys of building it. All i need is a good metel brake and shear, wicth could be had for not to much. in lets say diamond plate or stainless steel sheet metel or crome, or brass. How many and what size fans? up to 140-180mm.

 

Make a seperate compartment for the hard drives so they wouldent heat up the case, and the mobo and vid card stays cool with a 140mm fan in the front and one in the back.

 

Could even mount a small monitor right on the side of the case. framed out.

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MISSION ACCOMPLISHED :)

 

Just ordered my Samsung 830 128GB SSD :)

 

Weeeeeee.. I 'll have a busy Xmas vacation to reinstall a fresh Win 7 copy and start rebuilding all of my system.. but hey.. step by step.. I 'll get there :)

 

Possibly the good thing is it will be like when you "move" to another home.. you find a lot of stuff you forgot you had.. but definetely you will get rid of tons of stuff you really don t need !

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After you install Windows 7 on your shiny new SSD, take a few minutes and move your Users folder over to another HDD (a non-SSD), as well as any other temporary file folders you may have. You can then create directory junctions on the SSD to point to the new location of the folders.

 

Why do this? Because after an extended period of time, repeated writing to the same areas of disk space will wear out the flash memory in the SSD. This is not usually a problem except in the case of temporary files, as they get written and rewritten constantly.

 

Do you have to do this? No. It wouldn't hurt, though.

 

You want your SSD to do very little writing beyond installing applications. They should be mostly used for reading (i.e. launching applications). So move them temp. folders!

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That brings up another question. I've got my SSD and installed Windows7 on it, but do I need to reinstall all my programs, which are still on my old drive? I tried just shortcutting them, but that doesn't work. Is there a workaround to this? Because, right now, if I reinstall, they're just going to go on the same drive.

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That brings up another question. I've got my SSD and installed Windows7 on it, but do I need to reinstall all my programs, which are still on my old drive? I tried just shortcutting them, but that doesn't work. Is there a workaround to this? Because, right now, if I reinstall, they're just going to go on the same drive.

 

This is most likely due to the fact that a lot of programs rely on registry / app data entries that they can't find if you try running them on a O/S install that isn't the one you originally installed the programs on. Easier to just repair the installations I'd imagine.

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This is most likely due to the fact that a lot of programs rely on registry / app data entries that they can't find if you try running them on a O/S install that isn't the one you originally installed the programs on. Easier to just repair the installations I'd imagine.

 

 

How do you go about doing that?

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@ MH6 -

 

totally good suggestion. I already do that in general when I create OS partitions but a reminder is very welcome.

 

@ Durka -

 

one method to achieve your goal is the following (not necessarely the only method, this is the one I use)

 

PRE-REQUISITES:

You need to have 1 OS partition and 1 Data partition (whatever else non-OS) on the actual system. Having an external HD or a Network drive to use as "parking area" for a clone backup of your actual OS partition is suggested but not necessary. if you don t have it be sure you have enough room on the partition DATA to create a clone backup of your OS partition. You should also have an external BOOT CD allowing you to boot your compuuter with an OS (Linux or whatever else) to handle Partition Software. I suggest to use G-Parted in linux OS. it will come handy toward the end of your procedure.

 

GOAL:

Migrate an OS partition to a different new drive (either HD or SSD) maintaining all of the actual links and connections to Programs and Games installed on the DATA partition.

 

EXECUTE:

Use a backup software to create a backup copy of your OS partition AND the hidden boot partition Win 7 creates. Save it on the DATA partition or on external HD or Network HD (Network HD will take VERY LONG TIME DUE TO A MASSIVE DATA TRANSFER, AVOID IF YOU CAN)

 

Connect your new HD or SSD and RESTORE on it the BOOT hidden partition and the OS partition.

 

When done BE SURE TO DISCONNECT YOUR PREVIOUS HD and leave only the new one connected. This is done to avoid any kind of overlapping on the boot procedure.

 

Some backup software when restoring the hidden Win boot partition, loose the hidden quality. You have to be sure that partition is hidden. here the G-Parted Boot disk come handy. Starting your PC from a BOOT CD with G-Parted, use that software to verify the partitions you created on the SSD. Be sure the small Boot partition is ACTIVE and HIDDEN.

 

When done, your SSD should be ready for the first boot. Test if is working. Still having your old HD disconnected, start your PC booting from SSD. Be sure to start in SAFE MODE, SO ONLY MINIMAL SOFTWARE IS LOADED. When started, get into Computer Management, disk managemnt and check the partitions are there and correctly labelled. OS should be C and the other partition should not have a letter (hidden). Adjust as needed and reboot. If the small partition has a letter, that means the partition is not Hidden. Find a way to make it hidden.

 

Reconnect your old HD. BE SURE YOUR BIOS HAS THE BOOT SEQUENCE SET ON THE CORRECT DISK. Enter in BIOS and double check it before booting, you want to have the boot sequence on the SSD as booting drive. Reboot your PC and go again on SAFE MODE. go back on Computere management and Disk management and check the partitions you see. now you should see 5 partitions on 2 different disks. 2 are on SSD, 1 hidden and 1 C OS, then you should see other 2 partitons on the old disk, different letters, one is the old OS, 1 is the old hidden (no letter) and 1 is the old DATA. BE SURE TO RE- ASSIGN THE CORRECT LETTER DATA HAD WHEN IT WAS ON THE OLD CONFIG. If data on the old drive was D, BE SURE TO RE ASSIGN THE SAME LETTER. when done, shut down and reboot.

 

Rebooting now it should boot from SSD and and should boot totally fine with your OS and all of your links, Programs and games working flawlessy. Later, after testin all is good, you will be able to reformat the old OS partition on the old drive (you don t need that anymore0 and use it for something else.

 

Have fun ;)

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Thanks Batwing! I don't understand any of it haha.

 

Here's what I've done so far: I've already installed a fresh version of Windows 7 onto my SSD. I still have my old OS and am currently booting off my HDD. Until I can figure out how to get the OS on the SSD to recognize programs that have already been installed on the HDD, I'll have to use the HDD for now.

 

I don't want to re-install all these programs :( Even if I did, I would be installing them back onto the HDD, which would put them on top of each other basically. If there's a way to just get the SSD OS to recognize the programs on the HDD, which have already been installed, I'd be golden.

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Well, then i am afraid you are not gonna have that much of luck :)

 

If on the OLD HDD you have a single Partition, meaning your OS and all of your programs and games are residing on the same C drive under the "programs.. whatever" folder.. you are totally screwed my friend.

 

As a rule of thumb, in the future, get used to always create 2 separate partitions when you build a machine. One for OS only and onother one where you will install all the rest. That is the only way to have future migrations of OS without reinstalling programs.

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Well, then i am afraid you are not gonna have that much of luck :)

 

If on the OLD HDD you have a single Partition, meaning your OS and all of your programs and games are residing on the same C drive under the "programs.. whatever" folder.. you are totally screwed my friend.

 

As a rule of thumb, in the future, get used to always create 2 separate partitions when you build a machine. One for OS only and onother one where you will install all the rest. That is the only way to have future migrations of OS without reinstalling programs.

 

Ahh, and you know what? I didn't partition the SSD either. I might just go ahead and wipe it since nothing's on there and partition the drive on a new install. Arrrgh here we go again, the 3rd time this year hahaha.

 

I'll look at Athlon's solution before I do that though...

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ok.. keep in mind a couple of things:

 

1 - SSD Equal very small room, few GBs available, very fast performances - DO NOT NEED TO MULTIPARTITION THAT

 

2 - An HDD is usually WAY LARGER than the SSD you got. meaning you cannot CLONE your HDD to your SSD because of the obvious size difference.

 

So, if you have your HDD sorta of 500GB and you got an SSD 128GB, you do understand you cannot Clone anything, right?

 

Your final config once you have the SSD up and running should be:

 

- SSD: Single Partition, C with OS and ONLY those programs you care they get extremly fast

 

- Other HDD: single or multi partition, doesn t really matter. Here you will install ALL OF THE OTHER SOFTWARE you don t care for them to be Super fast. here you will have your Documents, Pics, movies, Temp files and whatever other crap you love to have.

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well.. that really depends.

 

The thing is that due to the small size of the SSD, it is "by facto" already a "single OS partition".

 

If you got a "large" SSD, sorta of 250GB or larger, you may decide to partition it, but then look at the big picture, how really useful is that? We are still talking about very small sizes when compared to large Storage disks 2TB and beyond...

 

What you install on the SSd is what you wanna have with the "fast OS" so really doesn t make any sense divide that info in 2..

 

Once you start with an SSD, I don t think you ll go back to a normal HDD. Either you will buy one day a smae size one or most probably a larger one, then u just Clone the old one to the new one and you are done..

 

If you decide to go back to a HDD, then you will create a partition on the HDD for whatever is the size of your SSD, and you will clone it on that.. easy enough :)

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Yeah I don't bother partitioning my SSD. If you do, you will one day get pissed off when the main O/S partition complains about lack of disk space even though your secondary partition has plenty, and then you have to do a bunch of trickery to get shit to write to the second partition or you'll have to delete stuff from your main partition.

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Just want to clear up some misconceptions about SSD.

 

 

SSD stands for SOLID STATE DRIVE, there are NO MOVING PARTS. By definition alone, no moving parts means NO WEAR & TARE.

 

The average life of a quality (branded named) SSD is 10-15 Years, well out stripping it's use.

 

All electronics have the potential to fail due to faults in the electronic construct, just like:

Your RAM/MEMORY , motherboard, CPU.

 

CPU's & RAM preform 1,000x more operations than an average SSD.

 

All an SSD is made of is NAND RAM & a controller, the nand ram replaces the spinning disk system in a traditional HDD, the controller still exists but is smaller as the SSD uses a fraction of the power (about 1/5).

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solid-state_drive

 

 

 

 

Previous GEN I SSD had a write cycle problem that could kill the nand memory, like a rechargeable battery has a limited amount of recharges. Since GEN II & GEN III have BIOS software write management which:

 

http://www.zdnet.com/blog/apple/the-ssd-failure-debate/1342

Yang said a pattern could be perpetually repeated in which a 64GB SSD is completely filled with data, erased, filled again, then erased again every hour of every day for years, and the user still wouldn?t reach the theoretical write limit. He added that if a failure ever does occur, it will not occur in the flash chip itself but in the controller.

 

 

So the nand memory is good for continuous 'write/erase/rewrite' for around 10 years.

 

 

There are utilities to monitor health, if you are worried.... but you will probably dump the drive well before:

 

http://www.ssd-life.com/

 

http://www.ssd-life.com/SSDlife.exe

 

 

have fun,

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