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'66 Mustang Restoration

MH6~SPARTA~

By MH6~SPARTA~,
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Athlon64~SPARTA~ Newbie

Athlon64~SPARTA~

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They make turbo kitts for them. But they are money! If you put a turbo kitt on it be carfull of the compression ratio unless you use a waste gate control on it, to much boost will spitt the pistons out of the bottom of the block-BOOM! Turbos can be had at JEGGS or Summit. You might consiter a super charger instead, belt driven it will have no spinn up lag time. And they are belt driven as well. I have seen some nice ones on mustangs.

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MH6~SPARTA~ Newbie

MH6~SPARTA~

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They make turbo kitts for them. But they are money! If you put a turbo kitt on it be carfull of the compression ratio unless you use a waste gate control on it, to much boost will spitt the pistons out of the bottom of the block-BOOM! Turbos can be had at JEGGS or Summit.

 

Ah cool, thanks for the info. :thumbsup:

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MH6~SPARTA~ Newbie

MH6~SPARTA~

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What ! :o

Haha don't add a Super charger it won't need it just port and polish and if ya want the HP then mill them heads and slap an aggresive cam in it.

 

Fix or Repair Daily, First on Race Day But it ain't Government Motors. B)

 

Yeah no supercharger for me. Will most likely go with a turbocharger though.

 

In fact, I've taken the time to compile a list of some of the bigger components I will need. You can view it here.

 

I'm going to be broke for the next 6 months it seems. Be worth it though. B)

 

Also, no more 302. I'm buying a 331 Stroker off my brother for $2k. It's in great condition, and saves me a ton of time and effort.

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Athlon64~SPARTA~ Newbie

Athlon64~SPARTA~

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I knew a guy that spent $1000 on rebuilding a 302 and all he got was 300 hp or so. It just not enough engine. You don't want to go past 9.5 to 1 compression or you will have to run high test gas in it @ over 3 bucks a gallon. A blower or super charger is better then a turbo becouse it doesen't have spinn up lagg time, and with a turbo you must idel the engine for 1 minute before shutt down allowing the turbo to slow down before loss of oil pressure occurs. Becouse the impeller shaft in the turbo is suspended in oil, loss of oil allows it to contact the body and cause accessive wear on it usally causing early failure of the turbo. Go with the stroker or 351

If you runn a blower you have to drop the compression ratio to 7.5 to 1 or electronic waste gate it.

 

Ok from the list you have there your going fuel injection anyway. That means you have to install the computer and wireing harness. The banjo bolts might come with the calipars.

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e_money~SPARTA~ Newbie

e_money~SPARTA~

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Just restore this one with what you have and learn. Then sell it and use that money to do the 69. I restored a 69 Camaro, Hugger orange, small block, it took me 3 years and 25 grand later and it was perfect. Some tips:

 

clean the rust, replace floor pans, clean the motor (maybe even repaint) you will be surprised at how much a decent paint job. You should be able to find somebody to buy it for a decent price, then use that money to buy the 69 Camaro. If you just want the car, research you will be surprised you just might find one that only needs little work.

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MH6~SPARTA~ Newbie

MH6~SPARTA~

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Finally got the car up on a lift today, took the front fenders off. Some of it looks good, some of it...not so much.

 

You can see a slide-show of all the pictures I took here (First two images are kind of blurry)

 

Now, I may be able to purchase a '65 Mustang that is in a bit better condition, at least as far as the exterior goes. It'd probably cost me somewhere between $400-600. May be worth it though if it's in better condition. It's also already been converted to a V8, so it has the correct spindles and all that goodness on it. I'll check it out sometime this week hopefully.

 

What I didn't take pictures of, and what I did like about my current mustang, is that the undercoating is intact in a lot of places. I uncovered some spots of bare metal that looked nice and shiny. 'course it's also rusted through in other places.

 

Also, my uncle, brother and I are thinking about splitting a $1600 tab for a soda-blaster guy to come out and soda-blast my 'stang, my uncle's truck, and my brother's Camaro. Not sure if I want to spend that kind of money on soda-blasting the mustang I have or if it'd be better to see what condition the '65 is in and purchase that first.

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Athlon64~SPARTA~ Newbie

Athlon64~SPARTA~

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Well shes rusty, Looks like your in for some hours of work there. Get new fenders, and bumpers. Rear quarters are ate as well, The hood looks saveible. The rear leaf springs and rear end looks ok. Sand blast/media blast and paint them. The floor panels inside are rusted, but no holes the can be seen from the pics. Rocker panels are ate good. You know after blasting, rustoluim paint is good for covering up bear metel , and is cheep to get, and a real good rust proffer. Don't forget ospho as a rust nutralizer/stoper. I used rustoluim in the spray can on the buggy as metel gripping primer.

If for any reasion you remove those inner fender walls/engine compartment walls, be sure to take measurements, or spot weld in some cross braces to refferance the proper location of them. Becouse if they are off the whole front end will be off from side to side.

 

That is a little high for blasting that. Shop around for blasting. If you have a trailer, load her up and take it down. If you have a big compressior you can buy/rent a blaster with a big compressior probley alot cheeper, and do it yourself. I would think $400 per car is about right for blasting. Sounds like he has the big nose syndrom for blasting prices.

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Athlon64~SPARTA~ Newbie

Athlon64~SPARTA~

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The one thing i hate about ford is every time you do a engine swap to a bigger engine you had to change the trans as well. Like if you have a 302 with a c4 auto trans, and wanted to go to a 351 you would have to change the trans as well. That amunst the many reasions I like chevy better. To change from a 305 to a 350 just simply change the engine. The 70s chevys had a universal engine bell houseing and every thing from a 151 4 cyc to a 454 would bolt up to the trans. You diden't have to change the trans as well, maybe the drive shaft lenth and engine mounts and heavyer front springs is all that was needed. Or if you had a turbo 350 auto trans and wanted the turbo 400 trans in it, just change the trans out and the drive shaft as well , and done.

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Zathrus~SPARTA~ Newbie

Zathrus~SPARTA~

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If you do put a turbo kit on it, I would check what a Garret turbo would cost. They are usually high quality

turbo's with oil cooled bearings. I would also suggest a system with an air intercooler. Getting relativly cool compressed air to the intake manifold is a significant performance increase over non intercooled systems.

Of note: Garret also builds many of the turbo's found on aircraft engines.

Buick also used Garret turbo's on their 3.8L Turbo V6 producing 300+bhp. The Turbo and engine had

full warranty coverage for 5yrs or 60,000 miles. Thats a confident warranty considering the horsepower

per cubic inch ratio.

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