Xross

lmao

Bloody SCARs...everywhere I turn.....

Nice!

Awesome Zebb...5x5

Happy Birthday Gunny!!

Give us a bit to DL/UL, patch, etc, etc and we'll put up a post as soon as this has been finished. Working on it now.. Cheers, Update: This is scheduled to be on the servers tomorrow so there's time to get the word out and for players to d/l the patch to minimize any impact. Stay tuned....

Link Tests Description: CPU:OCCT - Original from previous OCCT version - Now Core i7 Compatible - Optimized CPU:LINPACK - Same as IntelBurnTest based on Intel's own version - Drives CPU hotter than ever - 32 and 64 bit support GPU:3D - Similar to ATITool and Furmark Thermal Stress test for GPU - Error Detection similar to ATITool - SLI and Crossfire Support (Just enable Fullscreen Mode) GPU:Memtest - Written in CUDA this will launch a test very similar to MemTest86 or MemTest86+ for GPU Memory and report any errors. Power Supply - Dedicated test for PSU will launch GPU:3D and CPU:LINPACK simultaneously to load test the power supply. - This test demands 30%-40% more power than Crysis on a quad core system running 2 way SLI. - Warning from Guru3D: VERY DEMANDING TEST NOT RECOMMENDED FOR OFF BRAND PSUs. PSU FAILURE CAN RESULT.

Thanks Tinker.. Missions are back up on tac server so we'll let you know how they behave. Lookin' forward to these. Cheers, Update: I just ran through the first 10-15 minutes of mission #1 and it's definitely performing. The only thing I noticed during that very quick eval run was a trigger firing (won't give it away but the OPFOR Lt. needed last rights), however the task was not checked off as complete. We'll run through these in more depth later but it seems you've nailed the initial stability issues. Good stuff Tinker and thanks again.

Have a GREAT day Kiwi.

AT_GUI Enlarges compass to fully readable size (degrees/mils) Shifts chat box to right so it's not covered by MOTD etc. Install and launch like any other mods. Enjoy

These missions are not working properly and have been pulled. Looks like a good time if they get sorted. Cheers,

RCBS Video Okay video to show process although out of sequence for TV (this vid actually makes it look waaay too easy and I take issue with some of it but gives the general idea). The prep work and setup is the time eater not pulling the handle. Notice when he starts the single stage operation these steps have already been completed: 1) Brass collection 2) Brass cleaning 3) Brass inspection 4) Brass sorting 5) Spent primers out (decapping) 6) Primer hole deburred 7) Primer pocket cleaned/uniformed 8) Chamber dimensions are known 9) Dies are properly setup and adjusted (all tolerances +/- .0005" or better... that's half a thousandth) 10) Powder loads are known and powder scale is programmed for throw weight (assuming fancy electronics) 11) Brass that is ready to be loaded is nicely sorted into load blocks at the press 12) Lube pad is setup 13) Start video and load one round **Don't forget the brass work and die swap/setup required between the resizing stage and bullet seating stage which is another several steps and more equipment/time** Video continues into a touch of the prep and then a progressive which you will want if you shoot massive amounts of ammo and don't need extreme accuracy (eg some pistol stuff). There are others but this was handy. Enjoy and add up the $$ you see in that setup.

An M1 carbine in 5.56mm? I've been away from the scene for a bit but I'm thinking of the WWII carbines in .30 cal...you don't mean M4 carbine by any chance? I reloaded all of my ammo using RCBS competition dies with excellent results and faster setup as I used a single stage rock crusher press. Probably pretty dated tech by now. I've seen but never personally setup and used a progressive as I needed extremely consistent tolerances...no exceptions. This made it quite labor intensive but paid off. Athlon you just crack me up Bud...what are you busting decap pins doing?? Sure that press or the pin isn't out of alignment? I will agree that almost anybody's entry level die set sucks. .223 uses skinny little pins so if they weren't tempered anythings possible. Of course no rimfire round is reloadable (eg .22LR). Honestly if you price all the stuff you will need to reload...honestly....Press, tumbler/media, dies, micrometers/calipers/head space guages/measurement fittings/devices, bullets, primers, powder, scales, throwers, primer seaters, cases after every x firings, setup blocks, storage, bullet boxes and believe me there's more and weigh that dollar amount against the amount of factory ammo you can buy and spend your time shooting instead of loading you might be surprised at the results. I of course am not recommending against it but rather a truly honest view of the investment in both dollars and time. Look up the cost for just powder, primers and bullets which you will need after every firing and divide the cost by the number of loads you get and you're probably already over factory stuff....at least it used to be true....times they are a changin' Best deal is to get with a solid set of buds and split the cost but that easily gets weird when someone moves/has kid/loses job etc etc. If you do this put it in writing...trust me if they won't sign for their word it's not worth the paper it's not written on. Are you going to reload in the house/apt? Open gunpowder? Loose primers? Food for thought ps Reloading is not for economy it's a religion pps If you decide not too reload I'll send you my address for your once fired brass...

I doubt you'll need a brake for a 5.56 but depends on the intended application and rules of any competitions you may be planning on entering. Something like a brake could move you from one class to another where rifles are heavily modified. I would personally go as built and learn the fundamentals and work with skilled professionals. If at some future point you and they decide you need a brake then it can be added. Others are far more knowledgeable about this than me. Good luck and safe shooting. edit: After looking again at those pics of your rifle the last thing I would recommend is hanging something off the end of that barrel. A cheap or poorly fitted brake/suppressor/port job can quickly destroy a rifle's accuracy. Again best of luck and safety first.

From respected source: "*NOTE* The human eye can only focus on one thing at a time. You can not focus on the rear sight, front sight and the target at the same time. You should focus on the front sight. The back sight and target will still be visible they will just be blurred. The reason we do this is the front sight shows the path the bullet is going to follow." CQB/Battlefield is different than shooting for extreme accuracy while not under duress. If you have the luxury of time then you can switch between the three focal planes to check alignment but the focus should always be on the front site when the round is sent. This is my training and experience only and I generally shoot with both eyes open regardless of sights (there are exceptions). I also must have a cheek weld for any type of accuracy so I stick with 7.62 as my largest rifle caliber. Others are more advanced and current than I am so I'll defer to them for more detail. Athlon's right about the pain of big magnums..I usually have my upper cheek bone on or near the stock and with a heavy caliber that just flat out will ring your bell...must take some serious practice. Sniper platforms of higher calibers use muzzle brakes to help control them (look on the end of a .50 BMG or similar) Medium Bore Brake/Suppressor example .50 BMG brake example (this one is rearward as the rifle weight and proper hold/position reduces rise and you may need your shoulder for the next shot lol) BTW are you right handed and right eye dominant (or vice versa)? A shooter has a quicker learning curve if they don't have mixed dominance traits like right handed/left eyed. If you're not sure just keep both eyes open and point to something as a reference. Now close one eye at a time. Notice how the image shifts from where you perceived you were pointing with one eye but not the other. The eye that doesn't shift is dominant and it's advised to shoot from that side (although mixed dominance shooters can excel). Now that this is all about as clear as mud I'll leave it to the reigning authorities for clarification. I can do it just don't want to butcher the explanation causing more confusion. Good luck and enjoy your shooting. ps That pic looks like the original issue that didn't have the forward assist or brass deflector for those pesky lefties..lol. Generally the only difference you'll notice between the military and civilian versions (other than the custom options) is the extra position on the safety/mode selector for burst or full auto based on the model.

Athlon you ol' Magnum lover...lol that's a whole other ball game..Imagine shooting a .50 BMG without a serious muzzle brake. You might appreciate this.....I had a two barrel American Derringer for a while (a very short while) that was chambered for .45 Colt/.410 in one barrel and 45-70 Govt in the other. Tiny little grips , short barrels and a super stiff trigger (no safety or trigger guard...single action made to fit in your pants pocket). I took this thing to the range with a box of each caliber and started warming up with my .44 Mag. Moved from that to the the Derringer and the .45 Colt/.410 stuff and it was reasonably manageable. My buddy was there as well and after I was good and loosened up I took one of those 45-70 Govt rounds and slid it in the barrel wondering if it was going to stick out the other end. Well short story long I touched it off and it felt like my hand exploded. My buddy swore up and down that the top of my hand came all the way back to my forearm from the incredibly violent recoil. The vibrations from that shot was something like I've never experienced before or since. I damn near dropped the thing or rather it damn near blew out of my hand..those grips barely let you get a finger and a half on them. After I took inventory and was fairly sure all my important parts were still attached I took the spent round out and slid it into the box with the other fresh ones. Fool me once shame on you but twice....no freakin' way. I traded that thing before the sun set even threw in a fresh box of 45-70 less ONE...lol Matter of fact here it is....American Derringer M-4 'Alaskan Survival Model' Exactly the one I had: (Picture from net..for scale that's a 2 1/2" .410 round next to the 45-70 Govt.) Oh the good ol' days. You posted while I was looking for a pic Elvis...very nice drill!

Sarah Mclachlan Angel One of my favorites as I'm a big fan of powerful female vocalists. Maybe not for everyone or every occassion but definitely an incredible performance. Hope you enjoy it. Listen to it with a significant other....alone.....at night.....after a glass of wine.....dancing.....you can thank me later..

I was hoping to talk to you a bit about this. Sounds like a fun day. That spring sound (recoil spring in the stock not the main spring) I've been told is so perceptible because it's coupling through the facial bones due to the cheek weld so is directly passing to the auditory stuff in your head (There are headphones based on this principle). The sound of the shot on the other hand (from the rifle you're firing) is mitigated significantly by the 60+ db reduction offered by the most basic hearing protection because that sound is not directly coupled to your head bones but reaches the auditory center accoustically. The pressure from a shooter adjacent to you can be the most 'distracting' as the angle from that bore to you is much less than to you from your own bore. As an aside this 'over pressure' area is simulated in the A.C.E. mod and standing too close to say a tank firing can kill you (backblast is modelled as well). Actually you should focus on the front sight. This is a vastly documented subject so I won't bore you with my drivel about it. I'll just add that this is why there is a 'zoom' on the right mouse button in sims like arma. Since the human eye can shift focal lengths and therefore depths of field this 'zoom' is allowed as a way to 'focus' in more on what your looking at. Scanning an arc your eye would setup for one focal length and when a threat is detected the eye muscles allow a more 'fixated' and heightened view of that perceived threat. I've been away from this for a while now but this is reasonably close so excuse my fading memories and less than technical explanation. Glad you had a good time....Are distances beyond 50 yards available? I think the battle zero of an M-16 is 300 yds...don't recall exactly but 50 yds is a good standing familiarization distance and fun. More stable positions and holds are necessary at increasing ranges for obvious reasons. The best competetive shooters have jackets with pulse pads built in to help keep the rifle from twitching so much on each heartbeat...and then they fire in between beats....no kidding that's the stuff you need for extended range shooting proficiency. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Rest well young warrior!

I currently use a keyboard to fly helos but the key is practice, practice and when you think you're good then practice some more. I'm going to transition to a joystick which will require even more practice for the new setup...looking foward to it. Medic.....Do you mean a game pad or a speed pad. I'll need to pick your brain on that one. Good Luck, X ps I think the quote is "Slow is Smooth and Smooth is Fast" Not sure of the origins but it speaks to the fact that the slower (and more deliberate) you move the smoother you will get resulting in progressively faster times.

Link Also for Windows 7

You Go Girl!!

Congratulations Zeno.....What an amazing accomplishment!! ......................

Did someone hear Krambo say somethin'??

"Does this mask make my ass look fat?"