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What Makes a Good Zombie Apocolypse Kit


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Since Phisher brought up his Mossberg, I thought I'd share mine as well.

 

Mossberg 500A with Knox Sidewinder Drum Magazine (10+1+6 in saddle)

 

Sorry for grainy photos. I took these with my cell phone.

 

Just the Shotty.

 

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Here, with my SPR Mod and some swappable accessories and other kit.

 

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I would like to get the AR style grip and stock mod for the Mossberg. I'm not really a fan of a pistol grip only, but it is good for travel.

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nice medic. Only way to get these in Brazil is wait till the zombies come, then break into the army or the police station. Only small caliber pistols and revolvers are sold to the general public.

 

That's too bad. Shotguns and rifles are a lot of fun when treated with respect and used safely.

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Got hit by a small tornado last night about 1.5mi away. My neighborhood was one of the wost affected. Luckily I was awake and watching tv at midnight when it flashed across my screen. More houses with trees on them. I had a split branch on one of my 6 trees in the back yard, but it didn't damage anything and it's being held up by another branch of equal size. (about as thick as my waist). I bought that radio yesterday, the same one Medic has, but it hasn't come in yet. Could've used it last night. Tired as hell...

 

 

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Medic,

Just letting you know I got that Red Cross radio you listed in one of your posts above today and it is absolutely awesome. Most radios that size have horrible reception, but this is as clear as the radio in my car. I haven't tried charging my smartphone with it yet, but will do so asap. So far it's well worth the money.

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Medic,

Just letting you know I got that Red Cross radio you listed in one of your posts above today and it is absolutely awesome. Most radios that size have horrible reception, but this is as clear as the radio in my car. I haven't tried charging my smartphone with it yet, but will do so asap. So far it's well worth the money.

 

 

Awesome D, glad it's working out for you. Be prepared to get a ton of cramps in your arm from cranking. It will take you a while to get a good charge. I'd bet that the trick is to not let it go fully dead in the first place.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here's something you can use if the power goes out for a long time....

 

How to build a rain barrel.

 

water_barrel_3.jpg

water_barrel_2.jpg.

water_barrel_1.jpg

 

If you have a garden, or live in an area where water is scarce, or for any number of reasons, you probably could use a rain barrel. It's saved us lots of money every month just by watering the grass/garden with it instead of using city water. Here's how you build one.

 

1. Here's what you need...

a. Something to hook your barrel up to the gutter system. I use a flexible gutter that works pretty well, although during every rain I have to go out and detach it. I'm sure there's a better way but I haven't found one yet.

 

b. You need some PVC piping, which usually all depends on your needs, but I stick with 3/4" piping because it naturally fits in the barrel's bung hole. I'll get to that later. What I got was one 10" pipe(cut into two 5" pieces), and about 2 angle pieces. They're cheap, so it doesn't hurt to get extras. I also got a simple 3/4" brass valve that cost less than $8, but I'm sure you could use whatever you imagine. I also used PVC glue, although I don't know if I really needed it, and plumbers tape to put around the threads and seal it.

 

c. Last but not least, you need a barrel. I got mine from our municipal solid waste department. I just called and asked if they had spare or used 55 gallon barrels (food service quality!) and how much were they. Well, the lady said they were giving them away for free, since there's a big rain barrel populartiy in town, and a contest on decorating them. I went down and got the barrel ASAP, but it was missing a cap. So, I had to pay about $3 at our local barrel company. Here's their website in case you run into the same thing, and I think they sell barrels for cheap too. So, what you need is an old food service barrel with closed caps. You want a cap with machine threads, not the wide threads.

 

d. Some sort of blocks to raise it up. The higher you raise the barrel, the more water pressure you can get from it. If you want to water your yard, you'll need it pretty high with a long pvc pipe coming down.

 

e. Some bug screening for the mosquitoes and filtering.

 

1. Get the barrel, cut a hole in the cap where it's threaded for the little hole. There's a natural attachment on these barrels that will fit 3/4" pipes with MACHINE threads. Do whatever you need to do to attach them, either long or short, depending on the height of your barrel.

 

2. Turn it upside down and place the square for the flex-gutter attachment on it. Trace around and then cut a hole as close to fitting as possible. Make sure you wash the barrel out afterwards. There will be lots of plastic lying around. Also, don't forget to cut a hole near the top for drainage in case it overfills. You can use this hole to attach another barrel at a later date.

 

3. Put it up on blocks now, and cut some bug screen out and place it between the gutter attachment and the barrel. This will keep mosquitoes out as well as leaves that fall down in a rain storm. Now, attach the flex-gutter to the gutter and you're done! There's a calculator out there, but I did it and half of my 1,200sf roof will produce about 420 gallons of water in a 1in rain! It's true, because in any rain, it only takes 5-10min to fill the 55gal up. Then I have water for over a week. Good luck!

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Nice system.

 

PS: Ha Ha you have a topsy turvy tomato.

 

I'd consider having a primary tap on the side of the tank an inch or two up from the bottom to allow you to draw water without sediments, and use the drain at the bottom to flush out the tank when needed. Yes, I know that's not how the tanks are made, and that you would treat the water prior to drinking. However, having lived for many years in a house where our water came from a tank, there's an amazing amount of gunk that can collect.

 

My future plans include --- a chicken coop. Yes, it's time to start farming eggs.

 

PPS: Same signature since 2008. Prophetic or what?

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Yeah the tap is a good idea. I thought of doing it, but I lack the know-how to do it the right way and keep it sealed, so I opted for the bottom-approach. Sediment is a worry, but hasn't been a problem at all since Spring. It seems the bug trap up top takes a lot out, but I plan on washing it out in the next few weeks just to see how much sediment from the roof tiles has come down.

 

And don't laugh at the topsy turvy! It worked awesome last year, but has failed to give one tomato this season. I have another that has produced two so far, but not much else. Last year I had two coming in every week. I think the problem is there has been very few bees around to polinate, or maybe the cicadas have done something. *shrugs*

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Not to worry Durka the maters are slow here too.

 

As for your rain barrel just have the bottom valve on a pipe that is inserted 6-8 inches and it will be the same as coming from the side

the barrel is a great idea, need to get something made up for my Dad's garden like that.

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Trivia: take a magnet to the sediment you collect. Tiny black dust that is collected by the magnet is from meteors. No, really.

 

Adding a bit of space to the bunker is in order, so that's the project for this summer.

 

IMG-20110713-00128.jpg

 

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Yes, we will get rid of the existing inner wall after the new walls are done. Squirrels, mice and similar rodents are plentiful. Another wing like this goes on the other side. That will be a dining room. These are two bedrooms for the kids.

 

Note thick walls, thick rafters to accommodate snow load.

 

How much snow?

 

DSCF0133.jpg

 

 

The zombies will feed upon the weaker and easier to find first.

 

PS: We've found another, simpler method to capture rain. Freeze it.

Edited by Elvis~SPARTA~
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Erm Elvis..... Particle board !!!!!!

 

WTH dude. Particle board sucks. And particle board joists ontop of that.

 

Im a form carpenter with 9 years in condo construction down here in Florida and i've only ever seen 2x4 joists with 1' plywood in them on just one building and I didn't trust those and I sure as hell wouldn't trust joist made with particle board.

 

That stuff ever gets wet... well don't be standing under it.

 

 

BTW Durka, the zombies cant get you if they are frozen chunks of ice lol.

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I hope they don't get wet either.

 

My architect and reviewing structural engineer preferred these due to their strength to weight ratio. As you can see, the roof won't be shedding snow very much in winter, so there could be 3 feet of it on there. They built the sport shop at the local ski resort and that survived this year's record snow, so I've got my fingers crossed.

 

Unlike Florida, the cabin gets about 10 inches of rain a year, mostly in the form of snow. Humidity is 16 percent today, lower in winter. You're right about OSB and water. If water gets in, well, water won't be getting in.

 

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1390

 

Durka:

 

Metal is the only way to go there because of the harsh weather. Elevation is at 8000 feet and most days are sunny all day long, so everything else takes a pounding. But there isn't much of anything else there. I've seen one guy with shingles. Too many crevices for snow to melt, water gets in, freezes. Bad.

 

Metal does seem to keep the heat out during the summer.

 

There's a neighbor here in GA with a silvery metal roof. I'll ask him, but my guess is that it acts like a mirror to keep the heat out. Don't stick your tongue on it in winter.

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Sometimes a great site for resource is http://survivalblog.com/

 

It runs the gamut of "the sky is falling and the world is ending tomorrow" folks to your average person who wants to prepare for natural disasters or looting. That being said anything you want to know about bunker construction to underwater gardening can be found there.

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